The Great Canadian Adventure

As long as I live, I’ll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing. I’ll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens, and get as near the heart of the world as I can. John Muir

The 2022 Great Canadian Adventure started with the newish truck and trailer. Gil had done the preliminary work in January and we just had to stock it up with all-weather clothing and plenty of non-perishable food since we really didn’t know what would be available en-route.

TRIAL RUN

We made a trial run to the coastal redwoods again, convoying with D&D. Despite all the rain, the coast was crazy beautiful, wet hiking, and our first banana slug.

No troubles with the rig so we set out for many weeks on the road.

Bon Voyage

LET THE FLOWERS BEGIN

Silver Falls, Oregon was a one-nighter, more rain hiking. In retrospect, it was an introduction to the delight of the entire trip. We enjoyed wildflowers everywhere we went – forest floor, open country, roadside, mountains, and prairies. We also got fascinated by the discovery of trees as they changed throughout the trip.

South Falls at Silver Falls State Park

Pacific Bleeding Heart

Western Hemlock with spectacular new growth

OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK

When we booked our trip six months out, we thought we would need a 72-hour Covid test to enter Canada. We scheduled four days near Port Angeles but were able to just enjoy our time there as the test was no longer a requirement, if vaccinated.

At Salt Creek Campground we enjoyed dramatic tidal changes, sunrises and sunsets all while looking across to Vancouver Island.

Osoberry flower

Sunrise

Sunset

It is wild to jump from coastal tidal shifts, to snowy alpine heights, to redwood rainforest daily, but that is what Olympic National Park offers.

We returned to Hurricane Ridge to hike as we didn’t have time last year. Still some snow on the ground, not surprising at a mile high. It was a little foggy coming back down to sea-level.

Glacier Lily

We also had time to return to the Sol Duc Valley and hike to the falls (since it was pouring last fall). It seems the entire time we spent in rain forest (the Pacific NW including Vancouver Island) we chased waterfalls.

This leftover tree trunk is hosting a myriad of forest plants including a maple tree

VANCOUVER ISLAND, BC

The US/Canadian border is half way across the straight so all the paperwork is done before boarding Black Ball Ferry.

Goodbye Olympic Park

Hello Victoria

VICTORIA

We had a glitch with our phones not switching over as they were supposed to and Gil spent a day with Verizon resetting his so that our free roaming kicked in.

We went downtown to get our National Park Passes for Canada, next door to Chinatown. As we were staying right on the harbor it was easy access. We could actually see the parliament buildings lit up at night from our site. We managed to figure out the ATM machines and switched to Canadian money. We also switched to liters for gas and at $2.22 CAD it was about $6.75/gal US (we would pay considerably more later). The Canadian dollar was a friendly 80% of US.

Now in Salish country

The harbor barber

I love the sedge for their spouts

GOLDSTREAM PROVINCIAL PARK

Scheduling the trip was a challenge – BC Provincial Parks are reservable exactly two months prior to date needed. I was so nervous about them not being available for us, I booked other locations as back up and had to cancel as we got what we wanted. We are rookies at camping but as anyone can see we weren’t interested in wall-to-wall campgrounds with hotel-like amenities – we were after forest settings.

Goldstream was heaven, each campsite 100 meters from the next one. Lovely hikes to falls.

Hard to read the scale but I am actually in the picture to the left of the dragon log.

Last leg to Goldstream Falls

Another variation on the banana slug, not sure how many I moved out of the middle of our various trails

Large dogwood flower 6-8”

A short drive from Goldstream was Sooke Potholes, the first of many interesting geological phenomena. We followed the charming path alongside for some distance but didn't climb down into the pools.

False Lily of the Valley (about ¼”)

Stonecrop

Columbia tiger lily (about the size of a quarter), scattered all along our walk at the Sooke

Along the roadways we were seeing lots of pretty (but invasive) Scotch broom and wild foxglove, and we were seeing them along this trail as well.

Scotch broom (or Scot's broom)

This particular foxglove has what I’d call an apex flower! It was 4-5 times larger than normal.

As we were leaving, this young Golden Eagle swooped right over the truck and landed in a tree behind us.

Plant ID App

I picked up a coastal wildflower pamphlet and later an Alpine wildflower brochure but I had another trick up my sleeve. My friend Suzanne in Kauai is a forager and very knowledgeable about the Pacific Northwest having lived in Washington, N. Idaho, and British Columbia. She became my plant ID app for the trip. I sent her photos and she not only named them, but told me if they were edible! Invaluable later as we hit berry season. (And/but if I’ve gotten any wrong let me know.)

DUNCAN – CITY OF TOTEMS

On the road again, we headed north. Duncan is on Cowichan Nation land; the city and indigenous tribes co-govern to honor each other’s heritage. Over 40 totems grace the small town, each with interpretive signs regarding the story being told and a bio of the carvers. 2012 was the centennial the effort commemorates (but has continued on).

Back side, see explanation of five salmon

Quench, offering Duncan’s famous pure water for passers-by, including dogs

NANAIMO, PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK, TOFINO

Nanaimo was to be our hub to visit the west side of Vancouver Island and Pacific Rim National Park. We stayed at Brannen Lake.

It was a long round-trip drive so we started early. We stopped in at Port Alberni where I had lived in 1976, outfitting a salmon boat in March and April and then fishing in May-June. A nostalgic village that has modernized somewhat, like everywhere!

This is the Port Alberni pleasure-boat harbor, we didn’t go to the fishing-boat harbor.

The drive to Tofino came highly recommended as crossing the mountainous Island is quite beautiful, especially along Sproat Lake, then the Kennedy River and Lake through the Mackenzie Range.

Route to Tofino

Sproat Lake

Taylor River Rest Stop (popular for its clear green water)

We made it to the outer edge of Vancouver Island, the National Park hugging the coastline and outlets. We picnicked at the (other) famous Long Beach. It is pretty amazing, known for surfing and or watching the incredible Pacific winter waves.

A really long beach - 16km or about 10 miles

After a short hike above Tofino, we did drive down and skirt the village, a little too crowded for us but a popular destination. Major construction along the route home was pretty dramatic.

Tofino overlook

Surprise along our hike

At the harbor

Major project to widen and straighten 1.5 km of highway along the bluffs.

ELK FALLS AND STRATHCONA

Back to the east side, we traveled along Georgia Straight between Vancouver Island and the mainland. Even with the trailer, we were able to make stops on the way: Qualicum Beach, Miracle Beach, Courtney (for groceries), and Campbell River.

Qualicum Beach

Path to Miracle Beach

The snowcaps of the mainland across the way, made this a particularly lovely spot

Our next campground was Quinsam, inside Elk Falls Provincial Park, not far from Campbell River.

Quinsam Campground (are they looking familiar now?), so beautiful

Best meal of the entire trip for me, oyster shooters followed by freshly made salmon-feta burgers

This woodland visitor was hilarious waving his leafy branch wands. (You had to be there).

Elk Falls bridge

Elk falls (90 foot drop)

Quinsam was our access to the much larger interior Strathcona Provincial Park as well. It is another beautiful drive and we did two hikes, Lady Falls and Lupin Falls.

The huge Strathcona Provincial Park (dark green area)

Travelling back and forth across the island, we were appreciating the differences in terrain and various make up of coastal forests: Western redcedar, Douglas fir, Western hemlock, numerous maples, and spruces.

Reminded us of home with the mountains capturing the clouds going by

Quite a climb to Lady Falls

Below the falls. The mist creating rainbows, we are really noticing now that all the water has this spectacular aqua color!

Hiking to Lupin Falls was a completely different, old growth, experience.

Lupin Falls

Before leaving Quinsam, we did a little morning hike.

More trail friends, this slug looked dressed for a black-tie event

On the way back, I picked blueberries, yum. Commercial vs. forest blueberries

TELEGRAPH COVE

We learned that few Vancouver Island residents go north past Campbell River. It began to feel very remote even in the small towns. But our next stop was to be very exciting.

At our picnic spot along the way, Miner’s lettuce, (not very tasty I was told) but so cute!

We made it to Telegraph Cove, a pretty sketchy drive down a gravel road. Once we crossed a very narrow bridge, the campground was lovely in cedar forest – the ground covered in moss!

Site #92, right between the two trailheads from the park. Just a quick walk from our site to the beach or (much longer) up the mountain. Most of the seasonal village employees live in this campground too!

Bauza Cove looking toward the Gulf and islands beyond

The start of the Blinkhorn Trail

We didn’t try this one – some of it required rope and/or rock climbing

We visited the very small boardwalk-village.

There were tours being advertised for seeing the Orcas or a Grizzly adventure that was very pricey.

I couldn’t wait to take a boat out among the gulf islands – I wasn’t here just for the highway scenery no matter how stunning. Eagle 53 was waiting for us . . .

Leaving at 7am, we were rewarded for our decision by this bald eagle just as we pulled out of the harbor

Everything it should have been and more, we were on the boat nine hours!

Our destination was Glendale Estuary off Knight Inlet, a glacial fiord actually located on the Canadian mainland. Growing there is the super nutritious Lyngby’s Sedge the grizzly bears love to eat.

Our first sighting was a mom and one year old cub, well away from the deep estuary; it was assumed due to some unwelcome male-bear behavior that she was avoiding.

Near that we saw an exposed causeway that shows up at low tide (the tides vary enormously out here because of the islands' push/pull on the waters).

This site appeared in the Disney movie Bears some years ago where the photographer spent weeks waiting for a mom and her cubs to cross it! (I ended up watching the movie on the plane on the way home.)

Sadly, another staple of their diet is the mussels that grow on the rocks – the bears end up starving to death in their later years because their teeth have been ground down by the shells.

Closer to the estuary, we got to see another mom and cub, a little more unusual. This mom had not sent this cub away and it was now five years old, pretty rare. Not sure if she wanted extra protection or what.

This five year old is still considerably smaller than his mom

Cub eating the sedge. It was such a privilege to watch them knowing humans were not interfering in their lives.

It is hard to describe how peaceful it was to just observe them, unlike all the sensational depictions of grizzlies.

Before we left, mom walked over and climbed up to eat salmon-berries off the bushes. (A little blurry, I apologize, it was from a boat!)

We came around the point and docked for lunch. Food is kept track of very carefully so that, even though the bears can see the boats, they don’t associate them with anything either inviting or threatening.

We did see gulls, eagles, deer, and other critters: this little seal popped up to check us out.

Lunch was set up in the middle of the floating dock. Our guide said there was always a “lunch bear" around. Funny thing, our lunch bear was taking a nap on the beach while we ate. Finished, we boarded the double decker with a shallow draft (on left) to go deeper into the estuary. Later, we made a slow loop back to the bigger boat for the return trip.

I wasn’t sure I wanted to go back . . .

Lunch bear woke up and started rooting around as we were finally leaving. (center right below)

I got some final shots that made my day all over again!

My first real loon in the wild

A little harbor seal napping on a submerged log.

It wasn’t over, on the way home we saw a humpback whale breach and dive and a group of sea-lions frolicking!

Meanwhile, back at moss camp, while my laundry was chugging along after I got the appropriate coins, I picked salmonberries. The bushes were loaded and we'd heard there were frequent black bears around so I thought I better collect those near our site . . .

One dollar coins are called Loonies (two dollar coins are called Toonies)

Salmonberry cereal (loved eating bear food)

We walked around the village and peeked at the other campground; ugh – we made the right choice. Ours was quite what it needed to be and so glad we were in the forest!

Poor Gil – a planted canoe!

The end of the lupines we had so enjoyed so far (the seed pods so velvety)

Obviously logging is a major industry on Vancouver Island

PORT HARDY

On to Port Hardy. No one comes here except fishermen, loggers, and people taking the ferry.

Geared to the ferry travelers, the campground was very modern – good 5G wi-fi and very clean. We had a very pleasant walk bird watching with binoculars.

Our campground in lower right corner, we walked as far as path shown upper left.

Late evening, again

CANADIAN INSIDE PASSAGE

5:24am, no services at the BC Ferry terminal, we brought our hot drinks and muffins, ready for the long day ahead.

There were outside decks and covered seating where we spotted humpback whales spouting and the occasional otter. (The short video below of white-sided dolphins may or may not play with your browser, hope so!)

The arrow indicates where we are throughout the voyage. We had dropped off and picked up passengers at Klemtu and were well on our way for the second half.

The passage was very narrow at times and we saw endless waterfalls as the snow melt made its way down the mountains.

When we weren't lounging in comfortable seats, staring at the scenery, we played cards and ate at the quite nice cafeteria.

Sunset approached but it was still light til after ten pm.

Finally, an hour late, we arrived at Prince Rupert (located on Kaien Island) at about 1am. Gil had spoken to the manager of the Walmart the day before and we parked in their lot overnight. We woke up to see that we were just above Prince Rupert Sound.

Our entire agenda for this town was to go to the Museum of Northern BC. It did not disappoint.

Ceremonial Apron: woven mountain goat wool, cedar bark, puffin beaks

Leaving the island, a little worn out but inspired by the museum, we headed for the impressive Skeena River, one we would follow on one of the most beautiful drives in BC.

Extremely important to two of the indigenous nations, the lower Skeena was occupied by the Tsimshian and the upper by the Gitxsan providing each with fish and hunting grounds. We were duly impressed by the Skeena.

The colonizers later used it as well for steamboat shipping until the railway was built and bumped them out. Roads and rails often follow rivers; we would be near trains for much of the Canadian mainland.

At South Hazelton we were the only campers. The setting was a field of ox-eye daisies surrounded by poplar trees.

Fireweed

We could see this mountain from the camp. It has two names, one of them the Indian name, but asking a number of locals what they call it we got the following: our mountain, my mountain, or the mountain.

We caught a farmer’s market, got ultra-fresh greens, homemade tarts, and fabulous oyster mushrooms.

Maybe my other favorite meal was yellow oyster mushrooms with pasta.

More wild berries, saskatoons! While I didn't collect them, they were really good.

We were on our way to Kispiox to see some of the less publicized original totems. The area is where the Kispiox river joins the Skeena. A local came and told us about the tragedy of his lost culture and the attempts to keep alive their family stories (totems).

This one clearly had New Zealand (Maori) influence, indeed a cultural exchange had occurred at some point

We had our picnic on the Kispiox river, just ahead of it joining the Skeena.

On to 'Ksan, it was a shame that it was not open for ceremony as they have worked hard to build an informative representation of their people – the people of the Skeena.

We did walk the grounds

I was most impressed by the powerful location; the mountains and the massive river that threw those logs into a pile in its travels.

On the way back we saw this pretty female moose cross the road. Surprisingly, it would be the only moose of the trip for us.

As we left South Hazelton and the Coastal First Nation peoples, our next major destination would be Wells Gray Provincial Park for four days; however, the interior of BC was going to take several days to cross.