NORTHBOUND FOUR: FRIENDS
fate and choice telling stories
Last
U.S. stop on our way North in June, we visited Mike and Suzanne in Bellingham,
Washington. Recently relocated from Kauai, we got to see their hood.
Washington
had beckoned them for a number of reasons. Bellingham was chosen because it had
two important things, forests for walking and foraging for Suzanne, and a
robust paddling community for waterman Mike. I frequently texted Suzanne during
our trip about various plants, she is my mainland app!
We
walked a garden they frequent regularly. We enjoyed a tour of the town, had a
delicious curry at their home and were gifted several paper books (!?) to take
along for rainy afternoons.
The Fragrance Garden at Hovander Park 
Mike
and Gil and not a canoe in sight! 
Ocean
Spray, hundreds of these blooms on our walk.
CLEARWATER, BC
In BC,
we visited Belgian friends, Johan and Maryse. Certified chocolatiers, we had
previously seen their impressive lab. Maryse, also a baker provides the town
with wonderful breads.
We
parked at their home in Clearwater near Wells Gray Provincial Park. We had met
them when we camped in in the park the previous year.
Spahats
Falls (Gil, Johan, Maryse) 
At their home on the North Thompson River. They have an array of solar panels that provides for their industrial needs and electric cars to transport delicate chocolate to Calgary eight hours away!
As Maryse and I sat next to the river chatting and sipping wine, I saw my first Kingfisher flying (at speed). Amazing world traveler, she told me all the different places she has seen Kingfishers!
We also watched a very dramatic water spout develop and skip across the water here.
Maryse blessed us with fresh baguettes and various other breads every meal.
We
happened to be there for Canada Day (similar to July 4th in the US).
Canada
Day at Dutch Lake, local fun. 
Maryse
and Dakota 
HAINES, AK
We ferried from Skagway to Haines and met up with Rob who has had a home in the area for 40+ years. Haines lies between the Chilkat and Chilkoot Inlets. We visited all of them.
Photo from ferry, between Skagway and Haines. Gorgeous mountainous waterworld, just where the Taiya Inlet connected with the Chilkoot.
Rob arrived at our campground, just as we were parking. He delivered a couple pounds of beautiful peeled shrimp he had caught that morning. I had to do the shrimp justice with fresh greens.
We had good visits over the next couple days. Rob told us of the strange story of an old woman he had encountered in his youth telling him that he would meet a man that said "follow me." She told him to do it and he would find his true home.
Exploring Alaska, an old man in a bar asked Rob why he was on his way to Kenai when he could live in Haines? Then he said, "follow me" and Rob still lives there.
Everywhere
we went, people not only knew him, they came up and hugged him. He beat us home
to Kauai where he winters.
Gil
and Rob at Chilkat Lake 
Rainbow
Glacier from Rob's deck.
Rob treated us to the SE Alaska State Fair. The Bluegrass band was very good!
BIG LAKE, AK
Gil’s friend Scott happened to still be in Alaska as we left Matanuska valley on our way to Kenai.
He met us at Three Bears Grocers and we followed him to his friend’s storage lot to park overnight (where we had considered parking for the winter). Then he drove us to Big Lake where we boarded a little boat and went to his island for the night. How cool is that?
Scott's runaround boat was already in storage for the winter so he borrowed the neighbor's vintage pontoon till he headed back to Kauai.
Before dinner we got a tour of the three inter-connected lakes as well as local scuttlebutt about the houses and owners. Lots of professional long-distance pilots live on the lakes; lots of seaplanes at docks. Too fun.
The path to the guest house, outhouse up hill at left, Scott's outrigger at right. He keeps up with his paddling skills by going around the lake every day!
The guest house was charming. It was the only night not sleeping in the trailer!
Scott sent us winter pictures. When the lake is frozen, he can drive to his island. A friend clears a path they call "Ice 5 Highway." His truck is parked where the dock is in the summer.
Occasionally
an ice fishermen will take advantage of the cleared path and dig a hole in the
middle of it. Sometimes, they get instant karma.
This
photo is titled "Sun setting on stupid" 
SOLDOTNA, KENAI, AK
Once
on Kenai Peninsula, we stopped to see Marcia and Richard in Soldotna. It was a
quick visit before we headed on to Homer but made the plan to return in a few
days and stay overnight.
Native to Alaska, they split their time there and in Kauai. Marcia works in landscaping on island and Richard fishes for salmon in Prince William Sound every summer.
Richard cut the dead trees in their yard and carved the stumps instead of removing them. His depicts a fisherman, Marcia's a paddler. So fun
We had
a blast. We brought fresh oysters and they had just caught fresh sock-eye. We
had a feast at the firepit followed by a card game in the trailer. Hoping to see caribou, a whole family came through their yard the
morning after we left.
The oyster co-op on Homer Spit that Richard had recommended. We wouldn't have known to go otherwise. Soooo good.
DENALI,
AK
After
Kenai Peninsula we headed North to Denali. It was socked in or pouring rain the
entire time.
The
highlight was visiting Greg and Elise at their compound. Their house has a
panoramic view of the Nenana River valley (I failed to photograph it from the
deck). We heard about the plan to rebuild their forever (summer) house. Along
with piles of veg dishes, we ate grilled salmon and moose (for the only
time). Hunting and fishing are the Alaska way of life.
Both
of them travel a good bit of the year with Elise being a global travel guide.
When they are on Kauai, they are deep into it and when they are in Alaska, they
use every moment.
The
trek down to the river below with them was fabulous, along with Lucky (white
dog). A neighbor's dog went along for fun. We had hiked with Lucky at Kantishna
on our previous Denali trip, old buddy. His daily routine here is jumping in
the very fast glacial Nenana to retrieve a stick
Stream hopping back up to the house, I trailed slowly behind because I was eating wild blueberries all the way.
Greg had planned to fly us up to a grassy mountain meadow to observe bears and whatever else might show up (wolf, wolverine, etc.) but the rain did not let up. Luckily Gil and I had done a lot of hiking and had actually seen the Big Mountain on a previous trip.
FAIRBANKS,
AK
One of
the younger canoe paddlers on Kauai had said if we made it to Fairbanks, we must meet
up with his twin brother Jake. (We did make it, despite fires a couple weeks
earlier that had us searching for alternate routes – thankfully the rains
quelched them). We met Jake for breakfast on his way to work. What a fun time
with a very ambitious lad, born and raised on Kauai.
Breakfast at the Cookie Jar before Jake went to work.
PORT
ANGELES, WA – ASHLAND, OR
Oregon is home to our support team, Dennis and Darlene. It is where we stored the truck and trailer and it was our start and finish point.
Gil and Dennis reminisce about their childhood and their other four brothers. We get to enjoy the company of their adult children and their families. And I get to join the ladies of the mountain for “wine-ing” on any Tuesday afternoon I happen to be there.
They met us in Port Angeles when our ferry came in and we headed for Sequim.
Dungeness
River Nature Center 
Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge: The Spit, visible down through the trees.
We hiked down but couldn't go all the way out to the end as the tide was rolling in fast.
Driving back to the Donnelly homestead above Ashland, the smoke got thicker. The air purifiers had their work cut out for them for a few days until the air cleared.
Tuesday wine-ing on the mountain, Anne, Darlene, Ellen.
Crumpets with homegrown eggs before heading home to Kauai. Gotta love these guys, a trusty and tireless support crew.
Our truck-trailer adventures would not have happened without these two. Thank you, thank you!
Comments
Post a Comment